Unless you're a tile professional, we don't suggest you do this yourself. You'll need an oscillating tool plus an attachment that removes grout. This tool will also help to remove the tile before you lay down a new one. Once set, you'll need to apply another layer of grout.
It is NOT recommended by any manufacturer that we are aware of to install tile directly to plywood. Tile should be applied to a backer board like Wonderboard Lite. Without it, the plywood will expand and contract at a different rate as the tile, causing cracks to develop in the grout lines or tiles over time. We suggest using 1/2” cement backer board over a plywood subfloor.
A good rule of thumb is to look for studs whenever hanging anything around 75 pounds, more or less.
Studs are generally spaced about 16" apart and will support more than what drywall or plaster can. It's easy to find the studs (vertical wood framing within the wall) with the use of a stud finder--there are apps on your phone you can try if you don't happen to have one handy. If you are going to be hanging something super heavy on the wall, use two studs to space out the weight of the item evenly.
Our first suggestion would be to try and scrape off as much of the bubbled up area as possible, using a small putty knife.
Afterwards, patch the area with wood putty (not spackle!). You can apply using the same putty knife.
If you can, try and match up the paint as best as possible and paint the area using small brush strokes.
We hope this helps!
Generally, homes built before the 1950s will have plaster walls. Drywall became popular in the 50s because it's so much easier to install, and doesn't crack or crumble like traditional plaster.
To figure out what you have, try the pushpin test: Push a thumbtack into an inconspicuous spot on the wall. It will go right into drywall, which is soft, but it’s nearly impossible to push one into a plaster wall.
No, you will have to strip it first, otherwise your paint may bubble, peel and / or go on unevenly. The best way to strip the varnish is to use a coarse sandpaper (150 grit works great). Depending on the furniture, you may also need to add a paint and varnish stripper, too. Once the varnish is gone, just sand with a finer grit sandpaper (like 220), wipe off the area with a damp rag, then prime and paint!
To replace a ceiling fan with a traditional light fixture, you just need to match the wire colors. For example--white to white, black to black and green to the grounding wire. If there are extra wires after you remove the ceiling fan and install the light fixture, don't worry, just cap them off.
Engineered hardwood is real, but not solid, wood. A plank of engineered wood is comprised of layers of thin, lesser-grade wood with a top layer of higher-grade wood. The benefits of engineered wood vs. solid wood is that it's much easier to install and quite durable.
Surface scratches, such as those from chair legs, can be "touched up" with the use of a touch up kit, which can be purchased from your floor's manufacturer (or from a home improvement store). If the scratches are deeper and more severe, you can either replace the board or apply a polyurethane top coat to the entire floor. Sometimes, however, you may be left with no choice but to sand and refinish completely.
Insulating your home saves on energy bills by reducing heat transfer. When choosing new insulation, homeowners must think about their climate, home construction, installation method, and a variety of other factors. A reputable contractor can make a site visit to help you out, but you can also find the necessary information in this guide to energy-efficient insulation.